When climbers think of Margaret River they typically refer to Wily's, Bob's and perhaps Wallcliffe. The other places pale in comparison.....but they do provide variety. So the last long weekend me, Dena and Pete headed to the "obscure crags". On Saturday we were at Cosy Corner: 20 years ago we walked in with Jon, took a few looks, and never came back. However, there is just one spot in this incredible waste of a choss pile that we missed and it is worth climbing, it has three trad grade 17s named Indecision, Loose Lips and Chick Point. They are all 20 m long and easily reached by a scramble or abseil down a ramp. The climbing was all trad, absorbing yet not strenuous, and it was fun to do some onsights. Solid rock and super scenery.
On Sunday we headed to Moses Rocks, the crag with 65 climbs, two thirds of which are 10 m high or less. There are a few decent corkers though. The classic Moses Rocks error is to get there early and then suffer on the wet salty greasy rock. By 11am it dries up and the climbing is two grades easier but then, at 1 pm it gets hit by the afternoon sun. So a cool cloudy day is best which we had. We climbed everything between Cornish Nasty (18) and Hands Up (15) inclusive. It was nice to enjoy the new replacement bolts, thank you! The fully bolted Twist Till You Lock (21) was my favourite, probably because I did not have to twist at all, a geriatric flash that one. Dena had a go first, thus unwittingly putting up the draws for me, woo hah hah! Pics here.
On Monday we were at Castle Rock, the tiniest crag of them all, where we enjoyed the three easy routes including Feeling Groovy (13), which I put up with Ruth 3 weeks ago, also (the horrible) Stepping Up (17) and the atmospheric Cornflakes (12). There is a couple of harder things in the 20/22 range which are best top-roped or stick clipped and some sea front bouldering.
Twas fun, try it.